Finally skating on the Weissensee in 2012
Johan Grootveld
I do not have to think long when Ed and Cees suggest to go to the Weissensee, the Austrian mountain lake, where Dutch skaters find compensation for what they often are deprived off in their own country: the holy natural ice.
I do not have to think long when Ed and Cees suggest to go to the Weissensee, the Austrian mountain lake, where Dutch skaters find compensation for what they often are deprived off in their own country: the holy natural ice.
For years I walk around with the idea to taste that unique winter atmosphere that the foundation Alternative Elfstedentocht Weissensee (AEW) has been able to create already during 24 years.
Now the three of us are sitting folded up in a double decker bus of the AEW. After a stopover in Zevenaar the crowded vehicle runs in the nighttime darkness of German. A sleepless night on the Autobahn follows. In varying, but always uncomfortable postures, we finally drive through the Tauern Tunnel. At dawn we see a little snow in Carinthia. The bus ride ends in front of the family hotel Kreuzwirt. It looks as you expect of an Austrian hotel: two semi-detached chalet-like structures with a newly built hall in between. Lots of wood, a proper hotel, nice people, good service. The only disadvantage is the fairly substantial distance to the ice, about three kilometers. To the throbbing skate heart of Techendorf, it is even two kilometers more. This is an inevitable consequence of our late decision to go, taken in November. All accommodation nearer to the lake was fully booked.
Now the three of us are sitting folded up in a double decker bus of the AEW. After a stopover in Zevenaar the crowded vehicle runs in the nighttime darkness of German. A sleepless night on the Autobahn follows. In varying, but always uncomfortable postures, we finally drive through the Tauern Tunnel. At dawn we see a little snow in Carinthia. The bus ride ends in front of the family hotel Kreuzwirt. It looks as you expect of an Austrian hotel: two semi-detached chalet-like structures with a newly built hall in between. Lots of wood, a proper hotel, nice people, good service. The only disadvantage is the fairly substantial distance to the ice, about three kilometers. To the throbbing skate heart of Techendorf, it is even two kilometers more. This is an inevitable consequence of our late decision to go, taken in November. All accommodation nearer to the lake was fully booked.
The first day
The solution to the problem is the free ski bus from Naturpark Weissensee. That delivers us, a few sleeping hours later, at the tent village of the AEW. A piece of Dutch skating atmosphere created along an Austrian mountain lake. Even the bridge of Bartlehiem is not lacking. At the registration tent we first get our stuff for the upcoming monster tour next Friday: numbers, Kärnten promo and a transponder for time measurement. Hundred kilometers waiting for me, for Ed and Cees even two hundred! After a short inspection of the adjacent fries und bratwurst facility, we can no longer resist the call of the ice. Our first natural ice this winter.
Unfortunately there is no track available on the large eastern lake. Still too unreliable, according to the ice master Norbert Jank. Instead, his snow plows created a wide trail across the small lake, which is only two kilometers long. With a loop trail in style of the Dutch FlevOnice he still could squeeze out 12,5 kilometers unique skating pleasure. The first kilometers on this track my Rapsen skates seem to be struggling with the Weissensee ice. It is more difficult than I expected, the ice almost feels like sand paper. Is it the result of the sleepless bus night or of my heavy backpack? Cees and Ed, do not suffer at all, according to their speed. After we have skated a few loops together, I get out of the track to leave my backpack somewhere at the start area. This helps a lot. I finish this lap and even decide to skate a second round. Then I have had enough.
It is time to broaden my horizon. Namely on the large lake, on the other side of the bridge. Two tracks prepared on that lake drew already my attention when we arrived in the ski bus. Where the concrete bridge of Techendorf spans the Weissensee, a wooden skaters foot bridge connects me to the skate mecca on the eastern dream lake. Closer investigation shows that the ice quality is terrible there. Furthermore, each of the two tracks runs death after two kilometers in nearly pristine snow-covered ice. Reason to return disappointed through the “kluun” bridge to the small lake. There I see Ed and Cees again. Together we enslave us to chocolate and the music of the Dutch singer Guus Meeuwis, before returning to the hotel by ski bus . There awaits us a nutritious dinner as well as an excellent sleep.
The solution to the problem is the free ski bus from Naturpark Weissensee. That delivers us, a few sleeping hours later, at the tent village of the AEW. A piece of Dutch skating atmosphere created along an Austrian mountain lake. Even the bridge of Bartlehiem is not lacking. At the registration tent we first get our stuff for the upcoming monster tour next Friday: numbers, Kärnten promo and a transponder for time measurement. Hundred kilometers waiting for me, for Ed and Cees even two hundred! After a short inspection of the adjacent fries und bratwurst facility, we can no longer resist the call of the ice. Our first natural ice this winter.
Unfortunately there is no track available on the large eastern lake. Still too unreliable, according to the ice master Norbert Jank. Instead, his snow plows created a wide trail across the small lake, which is only two kilometers long. With a loop trail in style of the Dutch FlevOnice he still could squeeze out 12,5 kilometers unique skating pleasure. The first kilometers on this track my Rapsen skates seem to be struggling with the Weissensee ice. It is more difficult than I expected, the ice almost feels like sand paper. Is it the result of the sleepless bus night or of my heavy backpack? Cees and Ed, do not suffer at all, according to their speed. After we have skated a few loops together, I get out of the track to leave my backpack somewhere at the start area. This helps a lot. I finish this lap and even decide to skate a second round. Then I have had enough.
It is time to broaden my horizon. Namely on the large lake, on the other side of the bridge. Two tracks prepared on that lake drew already my attention when we arrived in the ski bus. Where the concrete bridge of Techendorf spans the Weissensee, a wooden skaters foot bridge connects me to the skate mecca on the eastern dream lake. Closer investigation shows that the ice quality is terrible there. Furthermore, each of the two tracks runs death after two kilometers in nearly pristine snow-covered ice. Reason to return disappointed through the “kluun” bridge to the small lake. There I see Ed and Cees again. Together we enslave us to chocolate and the music of the Dutch singer Guus Meeuwis, before returning to the hotel by ski bus . There awaits us a nutritious dinner as well as an excellent sleep.
The second day
The next morning I don´t want to skate again the same loops on the small lake. Techendorf appears to have a real ski area: The Naggler Alm of about 1350m high. Not very big, but enough for me to experience some skiing experience. Entirely contrary to expectations, I slalom a good hour down the sloops, use the drag lifts and visit a sunny terrace, as if I still have the experience from eight years ago. I wonder what would be more fun, slalom on a snowy slope or skating loops on the ice? Before I know the answer the ski lift is closing for the night.
At the evening meal we discuss the plans for tomorrow. The day of the “Alternatieve Elfstedentocht”. Ed and Cees want to skate 200km. They should be on the ice well before seven. Because the ski bus does not run so early, it means a walk of several kilometers to the ice. Real die-hards do not care about that. Even in the Elfstedentocht one starts with a piece of walking to the ice.
The next morning I don´t want to skate again the same loops on the small lake. Techendorf appears to have a real ski area: The Naggler Alm of about 1350m high. Not very big, but enough for me to experience some skiing experience. Entirely contrary to expectations, I slalom a good hour down the sloops, use the drag lifts and visit a sunny terrace, as if I still have the experience from eight years ago. I wonder what would be more fun, slalom on a snowy slope or skating loops on the ice? Before I know the answer the ski lift is closing for the night.
At the evening meal we discuss the plans for tomorrow. The day of the “Alternatieve Elfstedentocht”. Ed and Cees want to skate 200km. They should be on the ice well before seven. Because the ski bus does not run so early, it means a walk of several kilometers to the ice. Real die-hards do not care about that. Even in the Elfstedentocht one starts with a piece of walking to the ice.
The third day
When I enter the ski bus it is packed with an Austrian hiking group. The driver explains the ladies in almost not understandable Karinthian dialect that some thirteen hundred crazy Dutchmen participate today on the ice below us, in a 200 Kilometers tour. Respectfully the ladies look at the ice behind the village,which shows rows of sliding bowed statures. They don´t pay any attention to the one delayed countryman in the bus.
When I stand on the ice around nine thirty, it's still pretty fresh, minus five or six degrees. At that moment, the early die-hards have already finished three to four laps of 12.5 km. To my surprise, the first loops go a lot smoother than two days ago. Despite the ski adventure of yesterday,the condicion of my knees is not too bad. I decide to take it easy, to get as far as possible today. After every passing of the finish I have a break at the catering for a hot soup, sports drink or tangerines. Not too long, in order to limit the loss of time.
After the first lap the time is not measured. The second lap I did in 45 minutes. That is not so bad. So I'm going to finish the planned hundred kilometers long before the closing time at 17:30. The next laps go nearly as smoothly as the first two, but the time per lap after the fifth passage goes up, partly because of longer breaks, but mainly because of the limited speed, due to a moderate condition. The last two times passing the finish I was enthusiasticly greeted by the speaker: ".... and there he is again .... Johan Grootveld from Vierpolders ....!"
At some moment I meet Ed at a break. He is completely exhausted, but he still has to do a few rounds. I also feel very tired, but nevertheless I leave Ed there on the benches: With less than one hundred kilometers, I cannot come home. The seventh round (after 87,5km) is very hard. After round eight (after 100km) I can stop this struggle. The temptation is great, especially now that I just smashed my previous record, 95km. Still, I decide to add another lap of 12,5km to this honorable result. For this I press the last bit of energy out of my legs.
After the glorious reunion with Ed and Cees (good for respectively 150 and 175 km) in the AEW tent, it is too late for the ski bus to the Kreuzwirt. We are too exhausted to walk, but the local taxi helps us out. After dinner we lack the energy to return for the" blister ball" in the AEW-tent.
When I enter the ski bus it is packed with an Austrian hiking group. The driver explains the ladies in almost not understandable Karinthian dialect that some thirteen hundred crazy Dutchmen participate today on the ice below us, in a 200 Kilometers tour. Respectfully the ladies look at the ice behind the village,which shows rows of sliding bowed statures. They don´t pay any attention to the one delayed countryman in the bus.
When I stand on the ice around nine thirty, it's still pretty fresh, minus five or six degrees. At that moment, the early die-hards have already finished three to four laps of 12.5 km. To my surprise, the first loops go a lot smoother than two days ago. Despite the ski adventure of yesterday,the condicion of my knees is not too bad. I decide to take it easy, to get as far as possible today. After every passing of the finish I have a break at the catering for a hot soup, sports drink or tangerines. Not too long, in order to limit the loss of time.
After the first lap the time is not measured. The second lap I did in 45 minutes. That is not so bad. So I'm going to finish the planned hundred kilometers long before the closing time at 17:30. The next laps go nearly as smoothly as the first two, but the time per lap after the fifth passage goes up, partly because of longer breaks, but mainly because of the limited speed, due to a moderate condition. The last two times passing the finish I was enthusiasticly greeted by the speaker: ".... and there he is again .... Johan Grootveld from Vierpolders ....!"
At some moment I meet Ed at a break. He is completely exhausted, but he still has to do a few rounds. I also feel very tired, but nevertheless I leave Ed there on the benches: With less than one hundred kilometers, I cannot come home. The seventh round (after 87,5km) is very hard. After round eight (after 100km) I can stop this struggle. The temptation is great, especially now that I just smashed my previous record, 95km. Still, I decide to add another lap of 12,5km to this honorable result. For this I press the last bit of energy out of my legs.
After the glorious reunion with Ed and Cees (good for respectively 150 and 175 km) in the AEW tent, it is too late for the ski bus to the Kreuzwirt. We are too exhausted to walk, but the local taxi helps us out. After dinner we lack the energy to return for the" blister ball" in the AEW-tent.
The last day
The last day here we have to pack and leave the room. We have a last breakfast and we put the suitcases safely behind the counter of the reception desk. We all are too tired for another day of strenuous skating.
I have promised myself a smashing farewell on the slopes. The snowy slopes seems to be a good distraction after the skating adventure. On the Naggler Alm I enjoy a quiet slalom and the ski terrace. From the ski lift I see the preparation for the big tour on the large lake but that we will not enjoy anymore. High above the valley unfolds a beautiful view of the small Weissensee, including the loop trail. There move tiny dots, individually or in groups.
Today the Aart Koopmans Memorial races take place, named after the deceased, father of the Weissensee Happening. While I am skeeing Cees and Ed watch the race.
Back at the hotel, the manager offers me, after a great day of skiing, to use the shower in the sauna. She has already prepared our room for new guests. The bus will leave to home at eleven o'clock that night, 3 hours later than expected. Delay due to snow on the road, they whisper. We kill the waiting time with consuming our last meal. Then it is time for another restless, tiring bus night across Germany. In the afternoon we arrive in the Netherlands again.
There suddenly the winter appears to have started . Within a week we again can skate around in the polder landscape but without Alps. Traditionally the Dutch, elfstedentocht madness immediately starts. During about a week, unexpectedly, we can enjoy the Dutch skating fun. For me that means skating about 200 km in the Westland, Oostvoorne and the Alblasserwaard. A special bonus is the mirror smooth, deep black ice on a rarely frozen Brielsemeer.
The last day here we have to pack and leave the room. We have a last breakfast and we put the suitcases safely behind the counter of the reception desk. We all are too tired for another day of strenuous skating.
I have promised myself a smashing farewell on the slopes. The snowy slopes seems to be a good distraction after the skating adventure. On the Naggler Alm I enjoy a quiet slalom and the ski terrace. From the ski lift I see the preparation for the big tour on the large lake but that we will not enjoy anymore. High above the valley unfolds a beautiful view of the small Weissensee, including the loop trail. There move tiny dots, individually or in groups.
Today the Aart Koopmans Memorial races take place, named after the deceased, father of the Weissensee Happening. While I am skeeing Cees and Ed watch the race.
Back at the hotel, the manager offers me, after a great day of skiing, to use the shower in the sauna. She has already prepared our room for new guests. The bus will leave to home at eleven o'clock that night, 3 hours later than expected. Delay due to snow on the road, they whisper. We kill the waiting time with consuming our last meal. Then it is time for another restless, tiring bus night across Germany. In the afternoon we arrive in the Netherlands again.
There suddenly the winter appears to have started . Within a week we again can skate around in the polder landscape but without Alps. Traditionally the Dutch, elfstedentocht madness immediately starts. During about a week, unexpectedly, we can enjoy the Dutch skating fun. For me that means skating about 200 km in the Westland, Oostvoorne and the Alblasserwaard. A special bonus is the mirror smooth, deep black ice on a rarely frozen Brielsemeer.
Comment
These skaters experienced that it is not completely sure that one has optimal skating conditions at the Weissensee but on the other hand experienced the nowadays unusual event that they could skate in the Netherlands. There have been some years of bad weather also at the Weissensee. As we can see in the following video as well but if one goes every year to the Weissensee, one will be able to skate much more frequently on good natural ice than when one stays during the same time in the Netherlands.
These skaters experienced that it is not completely sure that one has optimal skating conditions at the Weissensee but on the other hand experienced the nowadays unusual event that they could skate in the Netherlands. There have been some years of bad weather also at the Weissensee. As we can see in the following video as well but if one goes every year to the Weissensee, one will be able to skate much more frequently on good natural ice than when one stays during the same time in the Netherlands.